Monday, August 31, 2009

Orientation Summation



Quarantined until further notice. 

Yep, that's what we were. Confined to lecture halls in the chemistry building, a dirt soccer field and three meals a day in the cafeteria. 

  

It was not unheard of to stand outside the dorms, 
(a gathering place between the boys' side and the girls' side)
slouching down with our purses and sandals. Not dressed up too much. Gathering up the nerve to walk outside into the city to quickly buy Soju at the market, scurrying it away in our bags to drink in our dorm room like the college freshmen we all were over four years ago. 

Apparently, foreigners, the other white meat, are notorious carriers of the swine flu.



Meanwhile, our SMOE guardians lorded over us in green basketball jerseys that sported fake American names like Claudia or Chuck, keeping information locked up in the COORDINATOR'S OFFICE at the end of the hall in the boys' dorm. 

(Funny story. Claudia, the notoriously uppity and self-righteous SMOE coordinator, told Adam Kostecki that his last name sounded like sonofabitch in Korean.)

We ate our Kimchee, but it was all we could do no to stab each other with chopsticks as we grew gaunt from lack of information and last minute changes of plan. On the morning of our departure, there was a list posted of last minute changes in teacher placements. One girl cried. It was a mess.

We did manage a good drunk though. 

 

Lisbeth and andrew and I played cards with Adam (the sonofabitch), Richard (from Richmond), and Philip (Who looks like the Canadian version of Chris King). They drank a liter and a half of Hite and I tried to drink some kind of sweet Soju that tasted like cough syrup. 

And here I am now in Dongdaemun at the Hoegi subway station. An hour and a half away from Lisbeth in Gangseo, forty five minutes away from Andrew in the south, and an hour away from my family in Mok Dong.

I guess I better get to learning how to navigate the subway.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Nerves

The longer I am kooked up at this university in Suwon the more anticipatory and anxious I get. There are several reasons SMOE gives us for our imprisonment. THey include:

1. quarantine for Swine Flu
2. To make sure nothing happens to us until our health insurance kicks in
3. because we are getting paid and we have to do what they say

Swine Flu here inspires near manic-like fear in the masses. We have to take our temperature twice a day. Our trip into Seoul to observe classes in action got canceled because of the Swine Flu (Because we might have it? Because the schools are closed?) Word on the street is that some of our schools haven't opened back up for the school year because of Swine Flu. 

But its not like people are dying. Or even getting sick. But there sure are plenty of people wearing masks.

But we are busting out tonight! We have company and we might break the rules. :-) More on nervousness later...

Monday, August 24, 2009

JETLAGGED

I have arrived in Seoul somewhat triumphantly.

I woke up this morning at 6:30 ready to start the day. (I also woke up at three thirty and five thirty, feeling as if I should have been awake long ago, although I only went to bed at ten).

Early this morning I was glowing: taking a walk around campus, meeting new people, eating breakfast, playing soccer on a dreadful dirt field, showering, TLC with Andrew etc. I started to wane around lunchtime and flagged considerably during the three hours that our whole crew sat through lectures on KOrean history, English teaching in Seoul, and Living in Seoul. By the time they dismissed us for dinner (with an alotment of about 20 minutes to eat) I was ready to pass out. I felt headachy, bodyachy and soul-tired.

LIsbeth and I took a much-needed two hour nap. When that alarm went off, I had to claw my way to the surface of consciousness and shuck the covers with tons of regret. We're hitting up the dominoes across from the cafeteria.

(Side Note: After failing to find the button to allow us entry through a sliding glass door into the dominoes restaurant, we had an interesting conversation with the dominoes guy who told us they didn't have the 'original pepperoni' but that they still had pepperoni. Needless to say, we got cheese)

Now we're waiting for pizza, and I'm thinking about going to find Andrew Dillon who is most likely asleep in his room.

I have been assigned as an Elementary School teacher which is great. I wanted little kids whose respect I didn't have to go through the trouble of earning. After today we will be divided according to our classroom levels to attend lectures. Lisbeth is Middle School. Andrew is highschool. Oh well, at least we'll be forced to make new friends.

Already I've made friends with canadians, a giant south african man and some Tories.

More on the information they gave us during lectures to come. I"ll post some pictures too at some point, as soon as I get this ethernet cable back.

Oh yeah and one more thing. SMOE would never fly in the states. It is one of the most disorganized and communication challenged organizations I have ever encountered. Different students have different information at different times. (Today, Jon Pak, program director, told a group of us to follow him outside and then left us to stand there wondering what to do next until we gradually dispersed.)

The frustrating part is, they had all the information originally and hardly gave the students any. We are still being withheld from information. For example, Jon Pak won't let us have a Q&A session until Friday. LIsbeth and I have deduced that this is so we foreigners can't make demands (such as changing schools/location/etc.) until it is too late.

I hope Lisbeth and Andrew and I get the same district.

I'm going to wander down to dominoes to see if my 'original cheese' pizza is ready yet.

Friday, August 21, 2009

Too excited to sleep straight

Tomorrow I'm leaving!

And I have mixed up feelings. 

I'm half teeth-falling-out anticipation, worried that I have packed too many bags to be reasonable, but left my socks behind lying peacefully in a plastic cubby in my closet.

I'm half wild anticipation, stuffing my soccer cleats in my 70lb. bag in case there's a pick-up soccer game at orientation. (Soccer with some hot Aussies?)

So I'm torn. what else is new?

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Pre-plane jitters

I leave for Korea in four days. 

And I have that sort of nervous feeling I imagine a dog has when he's found the perfect spot to go to the bathroom, but realizes other dogs are in the vicinity and he is, therefore, far too vulnerable to allow himself to let go, to release that which he was just moments before preparing to expel. 

It's a light feeling in my gut that leaves me not-so-securely rooted to the ground-floating. I don't know if that's because my body is helping me out, un-attaching itself from the sticky Tennessee clay, or if its the universe or God telling me that I'm making a huge mistake. 

Malia, Go back for the following reasons:

your Grandma is from Cocke co.
you went to college forty-five minutes down the road
you drink the same whiskey every football game
you sing Dolly Parton at Karaoke Night

Those pictures of Jesus in Renaissance paintings have him soft-featured, mouse-haired, and palepalepale. He'd wouldn't mind if I failed to hop on my plane at McGhee Tyson, failed to bounce through Hotlanta and out the other side to bow down to SMOE affiliates with an Anyonghaseo! But my Grandparents at Korean Church worship that white God. He beat out Buddha in Korea after America beat out China---at least partly. So it would appear that God/universe might care about my Korean soul search. 

God and the Universe aside, the bottom line is: when people meet me for the first time they ask, "Where are you from?"

And I say, "Here"

But that's not entirely true, is it? 

I know where I'm from. I know where my home is, I'm just not clear on how to live in it. No wait, I'm clear on how to live in it, (and I do, happily) but I'm not sure that it can't be better living. 

I better finish packing.
 

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Short story/fiction: Everything You Touch Falls Down






 

                                                            Everything You Touch Falls Down

            The late afternoon sun sagged low in the sky, lighting only the highest branches of the tallest trees. The willows that lined the riverbank were left in cool shadow. At this time of day, the willows seemed hunched and frustrated, dragging their long arms through the water like miners panning for gold. Black mosquito bodies appeared, making peppery halos around the men sitting on the bank. They fanned their hands through the air in a well-practiced motion, starting near one ear, pealing red from the sun, and ending by the opposite cheek. Occasionally one of them would spit into the river, and a cod would rise to the surface to eat it.

            The men were drifters, wandering up and down the river alone or in packs. They were the sort of men whose faces felt cold without a beard, even in the middle of July. They had long since forgotten the purpose of shoes, soap or toenail clippers, preferring the feel of hard packed earth giving way to soft river soil under their feet. Every evening could be spent fishing by the river or skipping rocks. When the weather finally turned bad (or a few of them heard of something more interesting going on down river) the men could disband with a general air of satisfaction.

            Near the willows, one man sat with a soft brimmed hat perched on his knee. He had fallen silent for some time, staring at the river and chewing on the end of a harmonica.

            "Jimmy boy, how the hell do you fish all day and come up empty?" Earl said to the man with the hat.

            "How the hell do you come to care about it?" The last part of Jim's sentence dragged slow like swirls of river bottom dirt.

            "I don't." Earl scratched at a scab on his leg until a piece came off and started to bleed, "You never catch anything though, and I ain't sharing."

            Jim blew absently into the harmonica, gritting down on the metal with his front teeth. The sound made ripples in the water. "Look at them ripples. Sometimes I wish they'd spread all the way from bank to bank, but they always fade out."

            "Ripples is trouble. They mess things up. They scare away the fish."

            "Fishing ain't the most important thing in the world."

            Earl snorted.

            Jim scratched himself and sucked his teeth.

             "I'd rather watch ripples than worry about catching fish."

            Earl squinted at the water. "Ripples is trouble."

                                                                             ~

            The sun was high, drawing waves of heat off the highway like a powerful magnet. By the time Jim emerged from the woods he was sweating alcohol, his feet burned from the hot asphalt on the road. He sat down on the shoulder to put on his shoes, breathing in the dry smell of exhaust fumes. A faded pickup approached, its pieces loose and rattling. The window rolled down and spit out trash.

            A mile or so down the road was a two-pump gas station connected to a convenient store. A man sat behind the counter drawing on his arm with a pen. Jim passed the store on the far side of the street and circled back around to the Coke machine that sat around the corner from the store's entrance. He took out the chain and searched its length until he located a small pick-key. He inserted it into the lock, making sure it was firmly lodged into place. He wrapped the chain around the iron bar until it was taut. He pulled hard. The cylindrical center of the lock came free and Jim opened the door, stuffing his pockets with quarters. He continued into town, staying in the grass. When he walked on the road, he thought he could feel the hot asphalt through his shoes.

                                                                        ~

            The dock was sunk low with the weight of so many feet, making the river close, almost a continuation of the dock. Every once in a while a man would forget his way in the dark and almost fall into the river. Firelight bounced off the water, lighting the men's chins and noses, leaving their eyes muted.

            Salvador's small boat had drifted up to the dock just as the sun fell below the willows. He was a short man whose hands moved from his cigarette to his stomach to his mustache in steady, fluid movements. Jim enjoyed Sal because he told stories about his wife and how she complained about his mustache. Or how she insisted on having sex missionary style. Tonight, he was red-faced and excited.

            "I am celebrating tonight boys. I show those guys downriver whose boss," Sal tipped back a bottle of tequila, leaving his mustache glistening, "I delivered to a restaurant in Portville and this hombre estupido try to rip me off 100 dollars." Sal spread his hands apart and shook them, "I say, 'look blanco, you think I am straight from Mexico City? I know how much cod and catfish cost and you are being a cheap bastard.'"

            The men laughed and slapped each other on the back. A few broke beer bottles against the dock.

            "Did ya get him Sal?" Jim asked.

            "He just say 'okay okay' and give me the money. I call him chicken shit and leave." Sal took another swig from the bottle but was laughing so hard some of it dribbled down his chin.

            The men danced and stomped and drank for a few hours, until they were spent and had to lie down for support. Sal walked over to Jim and sat down.

            "'Hey Jim, where is your son lately? He would like my story."

            Jim propped himself up against a cooler and spat into the river, "Hell if I know." Then he dropped his head down between his knees, the tips of his hair brushing the dock, "Sal, sing us a song."

            Sal pushed himself up from the dock, swaying for a few moments. He stood by the fire, his legs spread, tightening his body until the force of it was behind his voice. Then he sang, a Spanish ballad that slid smoothly over the water and into the night.

                                                                                    ~

             Jim ate at McDonald's for lunch, choosing a table outside in the play area. He ate quickly, keeping his eyes on his burger wrapper, concentrating on the hollow thud sounds of kids crawling through plastic tubes. On his way out, he noticed the shoes in the cubby holes at the play place's entrance. A blue sandal had fallen out of its cubby and lay apart from the rest. He fingered the blue plastic, trying to guess what age the shoe's owner was. Probably around four or five, the age at which kids found going to McDonald's so exhilarating that they ran themselves out on the playground, making bedtime much easier than usual for their parents. He hoped kids still got that excited about McDonalds.

                                                                        ~

            The sun was fading out, its light slowly covered by layers of gray clouds. The birds had fallen silent, pushing their heads under their wings and hiding in the willows. The men on the river bank shifted uncomfortably, their poles lay uncast at their sides. None of the fish were biting. Finally someone said, "Well, we better go on in."

            They pulled tarps from different camps along the river and strung them together. Lawn chairs, cards and liquor were placed underneath. They finished setting up just as the first drops of rain began to fall. The men settled in, playing a game of poker and betting on fish they hadn't yet caught. Jim sat off to the side, shooting liquor. After a few rounds of poker, he picked up a wooden box that had been sitting at his feet.

            "Look here boys," Jim opened the lid.

            "Shit Jim," Earl slapped his knee, "Once you get those knives out I know trouble's comin'."

            "It ain't no trouble," Jim began to take the knives out and stick them in the ground, "Its fun."

            "Let's play," another man said.

            The men picked out a broad tree that grew about twenty feet from the tarps. Earl ran out into the rain, hunched, with his hands over his head, and stuck a quarter to the tree with gum.

            "Alright boys, anyone who splits the quarter gets a kiss from Sal's wife," Jim said.

            "Woowhee, I wonder if she tastes like enchiladas," a man said, licking his lips and rubbing his belly.

            The men threw knives and shot liquor. The later in the day it got, the wider they missed their mark.

            "Hey Earl," Jim said, swaying slightly, "If I hit the quarter with this shot, you gotta go get my knife out in the rain."

            "That ain't nothin. First of all, you won't make the shot. And second of all, I already went out in the rain to set up the target, so it ain't nothin."

            "Well then, if I make it, you gotta stand there while I shoot again."

            "What do I get if you miss?"

            "You can have the knives."

            Earl sat down hard on the knife box. He squinted his eyes and rubbed his beard.  "You sure about this?"

            The other men got excited. "Earl, he ain't gonna make that shot, go ahead, those knives are as good as yours."

            "Alright then." Earl stood up.

            The men passed the bottle around for a good luck shot, and clapped Jim on the back. Jim picked out a knife with a dark wood handle. He threw it.

            It flipped end over end through the air and grazed the outside of the tree trunk, landing in some bushes.

            "Looks like I got me a new knife collection." Earl stood patting his belly. The men yelled and whooped in congratulation. Earl walked over to claim his prize.

            "Go out and stand by the tree," Jim said.

            "What?"

            Jim held up a knife. "Go on."

            Earl hesitated, glancing at the other men. They were huddled together, their hands in their pockets.  He turned and walked out into the rain slowly, deliberately.

            "Turn around."

            Earl turned.

            Jim threw a second time. The knife was on target, sinking into wood a few inches above Earl's head.

                                                                        ~

            He stayed in the grass and kept his head down until he reached a park. It was no more than a patch of grass with a walking track running the length of its borders. A few rotten benches and some picnic tables sat in the grass. As he approached, he noticed that on top of one of the picnic tables was a small drawstring bag. Jim opened it and found a set of hard glass dominoes, the lines and dots were painted blue, purple, green and red. He sat down on the track and began to set them up, creating a large spiral that took up the width of the track. Then he laid down on the grass beside it, put his arm over his eyes and fell asleep.

            A foot nudged him awake.

            "Dad."

            Jim sat up, shaking his hair and rubbing spit from his beard. "What took you so long?"

            The man was young. He would have looked like a younger version of Jim save his large ears which stuck out through his hair. He looked at Jim and shrugged. "Did you set these up?"

            "I was waiting." Jim moved so that he was facing the spiral, "Remember when we used to play?"

            "We never played dominoes."

            "Yeah we did, remember that one time after you came home from school? You were sad 'cause your teacher gave you a bad grade or something. So I cheered you up by playing dominoes."

            "We only played that one time."

            "Really? I could of swore we played other times." Jim yanked some grass out of the ground and began to tear it apart.

            "Nope."

            Jim continued to tear at the grass for a few moments. Then, "So you comin' back to the river with me? We can throw knives."

            "No."

            "No what?"

             "I'm not going to the river."

            Jim looked up. "Why'd you come here then?"

            The young man was silent for a moment. He reached into his pocket to get a cigarette. He fumbled with a lighter. After he got it lit, he took a few quick drags and said, "To tell you I'm not coming back."

            "Why not?"

            "Because." The young man's eyes moved back and forth. His gaze found the dominoes and he bent down next to them, "Everything you touch falls down and hits somebody else."

            "Shit boy, what are you talking about?"

            The young man pushed the first domino over, hitting the second, which hit the third and the fourth, fifth, sixth. The sound of single dominoes hitting each other became a rain-like song that echoed through the park. When it was finished and the spiral was collapsed, the sudden silence was abrupt and empty.

                                                                        ~

            The river was high from the storm. Every time a riverboat passed, water would slosh up onto the dock, getting Jim's feet wet. The moon was old, offering little light, so the men had to huddle around the fire to see. They were quiet except for Sal, who had brought his wife, Frieda, with him.

            "These guys are great. They live life with no regret. Never having to work, just drink and fish and sleep." Sal's speech was fast and slurred. His wife looked at the men, she neither smiled or frowned. Her brown eyes regarded them evenly.

            "Now, it ain't that simple." Earl said.

            "Sure ain't." Another man said.

            "Sure it is. You love the river. You love fish. No family, no wife. You prefer it this way, right?" Sal had moved away from his wife and was laying down on the dock outside the circle of light.

            "Hell yeah, life is better that way," Jim said, "who needs a woman anyway? They ain't nothin' but trouble."

            "I'll drink to that," one man said, and they all drank.

            There was no response from Sal. Frieda shifted, crossing her legs and folding her arms over her chest.

            "What's up with you women anyway? Thinking you're damn special." Jim set his empty beer can down and crushed it with his foot.

            In response, Freida tilted her head to the side, looking down at the dock. Her dark hair fell off her shoulder, leaving it exposed.

            Some of the men stood up, others moved closer to the fire. They opened new cans of beer.

            "You speakee English?" Spittle flecked out of Jim's mouth as he spoke. He turned to the other men, "She probably don't need to. She's probably too busy fucking to talk." The men laughed appreciatively. Earl's smile stretched across his fat face.

             She drew her arms in so that her elbows were down, and her hands were under chin. She hesitated. The men were gathered close together now, almost shoulder to shoulder. "Salvador is a silly man and drinks too much. But he comes home where I am at night. I think that is special."

             "It ain't special. You just have something he wants," Jim laughed.

             "Hey Frieda, you wanna go for a swim with me?" a man said.

            Frieda began to cry, a soundless weeping that went unnoticed by most of the men. It had been a long time since Jim had seen a woman cry. Her tears seemed to follow the same path down her face, the first following the second, third, fourth, fifth.

            "I think she looks like she wants to get wet," Earl said. He stood by the fire, bent slightly forward so that his face was almost over the flames. Beads of sweat were on his nose and forehead. Jim noticed his knife in Earl's waistband, the wooden handle stuck out, weighing down the elastic. It looked heavy and awkward tucked into his pants.

            "I tell you what boys, why don't we give Sal a swim in the river?" Jim turned to Earl, "You ever seen a drunk Mexican swim?"

            Earl cocked his head to the side for a moment, unsure. Then he smiled and said, "Hell no I ain't. You think he'll float?"

            Jim picked up Sal, heaving his weight to the edge of the dock, and dunked him. He came up sputtering. The reaction was immediate. Some men stepped back and a few sat down. Earl squatted by the fire.

             Freida hurried over to Sal and spoke with him in Spanish. Jim helped her get Sal to the boat.             "Gracious," she said.

            "Don't thank me. You ain't fucking welcome here." Jim watched as Freida turned on the motor. The little boat sped away downriver, traveling quickly with the current.

            Jim returned to the fire and squatted next to Earl. The waves from Sal's boat made water wash up onto the dock and soak their feet.

            "Fucking river," Earl said. He passed Jim the liquor bottle and he tipped it back.

           

           

            

Friday, April 11, 2008

Grandma's pictures































Here's some pictures I took of my grandmother for photo class last year. Isn't she beautiful?